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Captivating aromas of peonies, rose petals, blood orange, violets, raspberries and warm spices preface Mugnier's 2020 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses, a medium to full-bodied, ample and exquisitely perfumed wine that's elegant and seamless, with a perfumed, sensual profile and a long, resonant finish.
Jacques-Frederic Mugnier was disconcerted, nay alarmed, by the early date of harvest in 2020, yet he said he has come to like the ensuing wines more and more as they evolve during their elevage. And indeed, by the time I visited in late October, the 2020s were showing brilliantly: deep, vibrant, and concentrated, they will give the sensual, demonstrative 2019s a run for their money, but in an entirely different stylistic register. If the 2019s will show well after only a few years (even if their ultimate potential will take longer to realize), the 2020s are more tightly wound and seem to me likely to have shut down. Two warm, dry vintages, in other words, have produced wines that are qualitatively similar but stylistic opposites; and such is the paradox of contemporary Burgundy, that far from effacing vintage and site differences, a changing climate is in fact heightening them. Such reflections notwithstanding, the fact is that the 2020 vintage is another brilliant vintage at this address, one of the Cote de Nuits greatest domaines, and readers shouldn't hesitate to secure what they can, before it's too late.
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