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Tissot’s non-vintage Cremant du Jura Indigene represents an inaugural cuvee based on a 2006 vintage base wine and on principles that I first encountered in a remarkable sparkling cuvee begun with Riesling from the 1995 vintage by Pfalz vintner Rainer, but which have since been followed, with variations, by numerous innovative growers in Champagne as well. Neither sugar nor commercial yeasts are utilized for either the primary or secondary fermentations, and the latter is induced by the addition of a sweet wine, in this instance a Vin de Paille! There is no dosage, but four grams of residual sugar remain from the secondary fermentation. The result is sensational, one the finest sparkling wines I have ever tasted outside of Champagne, not to mention the finest sparkling wine value ever tasted. Subtly toasted grain, orange blossom, narcissus, Normandy cider, and quince on the nose lead into a palate of fine mousse and remarkable polish and creaminess, brimming with apple, quince, and pineapple with notes of orange zest, salted caramel, wheat germ, fresh cream, and toasted cashew adding richness and diversity. This finishes with superb length and fascination of grain, nut, honeyed orchard fruit, and mineral nature. Given the proclivities of the Champagne regions’ experimental Young Turks, I’m sure it would strike them as heresy for a cuvee of this integrity not to be totally, bone dry. Fortunately, Tissot has also mastered the aesthetics, and precisely thanks to this having a soupcon of sweetness, the flavors are reinforced and the wine will be fantastically versatile with cuisine. Stephane Tissot’s sparking cuvees of Chardonnay and Pinot remain among the finest traditional method sparklers for the money grown anywhere in the world. Seldom is any rush necessary with still wines from the top Jura growers ? not even the non-oxidative ones ? although the wine’s character will become nuttier, richer, and less citric.
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